Nay Pyi Taw, Myanmar’s modern, sprawling capital of grand, imposing buildings and expansive highways rises abruptly out of what was once a sleepy rural area. The scenes it provides are often those of quaint juxtapositions; an ox-drawn cart rattling down the shoulder of an eight-lane highway while a motorcade of black government SUVs speeds past is not an unusual sight.
While Nay Pyi Taw is not yet a magnet for conventional tourists—though this is something that the government is hoping to change—serious business travellers will undoubtedly find themselves making their way to the capital during their visit to Myanmar.
In the wake of the comprehensive economic reforms undertaken by the government, representative offices of companies interested in operating or already based in the country have begun to open in Nay Pyi Taw. They are often housed at offices in one of the city’s upscale hotels. The offices provide businesses with access to key ministers and government officials and invaluable opportunities for face-to-face meetings.
The degree of access that business people are granted can be a welcome surprise to those used to dealing with governments that include expansive public relations divisions and bureaucratic stepping stones needed to reach decision makers. Meetings with high-level government officials are certainly obtainable, though the increased demands for their time means that flexibility is essential and last-minute schedule changes may be necessary.
Nay Pyi Taw was not designed for pedestrians and a car is essential for any type of travel within the capital as some Ministry buildings are located some distance from the hotel zone.
Business travellers will find that hotels are geared to their needs. Wireless internet is widely available in hotels and better than average mobile phone coverage means that staying in touch is easier in Nay Pyi Taw than in the rest of the country.
While hotels include conference facilities there is also the expansive Myanmar International Conference Centre (MICC) that opened in 2010. This 30,000 square foot building, set on a 16-acre site, has a main hall capable of seating about 1,200 people.
Introduction to Nay Pyi Taw
Myanmar is full of surprises and Nay Pyi Taw is one of them. Nay Pyi Taw, its name translates as ‘Royal City’ or ‘Seat of Kings’, is a young capital which, contrary to belief, has much to offer a visitor whether on business or on holiday. Built on a plain which sits between two ranges of hills, the Bago Yoma and Shan Yoma, on a clear day the city has a marvellous backdrop.
For the visitor who arrives at the gleaming new airport the drive into the city is first through beautiful lush farmland, dotted with small white pagodas, and if not too hazy you may spot the lofty Uppatansanti Pagoda off to your right.
On nearing the city that all changes; the road becomes a multi-lane highway the central reservation is planted with oleander and tumbling bougainvillea, with light traffic on the road a relief after Yangon’s dense traffic. The highways which criss-cross the city are interspersed with stately roundabouts, a huge sculpted red rose sits atop one such well-planted roundabout.
The first impression of the city is its scale—huge spaces and substantial but mostly low-rise buildings. The majority of buildings are painted soft colours with intricate traditional-style Myanmar roofs. There is still much construction under way but all that is needed in a capital city is now in place; the government buildings, housing, schools, hospitals, markets, hotels and for both residents and visitors recreational things to do (including several golf courses).
One of the pleasures for the visitor is that surrounding the modern city are several old towns such as Pyinmana and Lewe, these have a wealth of treasures to explore, old pagodas, teak monasteries, traditional markets.
History and Construction
Historically there is a tradition of moving the capital for each new dynasty—for instance around Mandalay, the last royal capital, are three former capitals, Ava, Amarapura and Sagaing. However in 2005, the seat of administration was moved 230 kilometres north from Yangon, then the capital to newly constructed Nay Pyi Taw there was certain speculation, both national and international as to why the move. The main reason was that Yangon was becoming too crowded, which to anyone recently stuck in a downtown Yangon traffic jam makes sense. And crucially the location of Nay Pyi Taw is geographically much more central.
Nay Pyi Taw is a Union Territory with its administration in the remit of the President. He in turn has appointed members of the Nay Pyi Taw Council who run the city. Nay Pyi Taw is arranged into 8 townships, 5 new ones and 3 original townships. This means that all the government ministries are found in one area, all the hotels together in two specific zones and so on. Again the residential areas are zoned hence the government ministers and employees live in a certain area depending on seniority—indeed the roofs of some apartment buildings are colour-coded to indicate in which ministry the inhabitants are employed (Ministry of Agriculture employees have green roofs). The landscaping throughout the city is good; it is well tended and watered. Luckily the area is surrounded by three reservoirs so there is no water shortage, this also means, due to hydro-electricity that power is not a problem.
Because the footprint of the city is so huge transport is challenging. There is as yet apparently no good bus service, only one taxi company and the proposed Metro service has been shelved. For residents and visitors alike it can present problems as you cannot just leave your office, home or hotel and walk to the market, a restaurant or indeed for an evening stroll in the Zoological Gardens.
Highlights of Nay Pyi Taw
Of all the sights in Nay Pyi Taw the golden Uppatansanti Pagoda is the most spectacular. It was opened in 2009 and is a replica of the great Shwedagon Pagoda; it sits on a hill looking down on the city with a large monastery complex below. The stupa is 325 feet tall so a mere 12 inches shorter than the Shwedagon. A long staircase leads up onto the wide marble terraces which encircle the pagoda. Unlike the Shwedagon it is possible to walk into the stupa, a large space with marble slabs along the walls on which are carved the Jataka stories. Around the centre on golden thrones sit four jade Buddha images; they depict the four phases of his life; birth, enlightenment, the first discourse, and attaining Nirvana. The relic chamber holds a tooth of the Lord Buddha.
In the gardens below the pagoda live seven White Elephants, at any one time two will be on show. To possess a white or albino elephant has been all important in the history of Myanmar; they are supposed to bring ‘peace, stability and prosperity’. Until recently there were five white elephants housed below the Uppatansanti Pagoda. There is a charming story about the capture of the 7th elephant from the Pathein area. This 15 year old female elephant was first spotted in 2006 but the story goes she was protected by her herd who covered her in mud. Unfortunately one rainy day in 2011 she was spotted again as the rain had washed off the muddy disguise.
The Gems Museum
Two sculptures of white elephants stand guard outside the entrance to the museum. The ground f loor is arranged like a market with different merchants selling their wares. The majority of gems have already been set into a piece of jewellery although there are some raw stones available. Upstairs is the museum which houses some startlingly large stones—a dragon of rubies guarding a vast pearl. A star sapphire which the label proclaims is the world’s largest though it looks a little boring as it is unpolished. A piece of jade intricately carved to the shape of the Shwedagon Pagoda.
Nay Pyi Taw hosts the Gem Emporium now in its 50th year, before it was held in Yangon. It takes place once or twice a year in another purpose built centre with a vast helmet-like roof, which glistens in the sun as you drive past.
The Emporium attracts gem merchants from around the world as Myanmar is known for producing the world’s best rubies and jade, fine pearls and many other precious and semi-precious stones.
Parks and Gardens
Nay Pyi Taw is well catered for with public gardens; the Jade Garden, the Water Fountain Garden, Zoological Gardens, Safari Wildlife Park, National Herbal Garden and the National Landmark Garden are all to be found in and around the capital. Every one of these gardens is worth a visit and several are open at night with attractive lighting. The zoo is now home to some 430 animals many of whom were moved to their specially created new home from the former capital Yangon. The 200 acre Herbal Garden boasts 353 species of herbal plants, many indigenous. It is run by the Health Ministry hence there is much information on the use of herbs in medicine. The National Landmark Garden features mini versions of the country’s famous sights. This includes a model of Nay Pyi Taw so for anyone interested in the development and architecture of the city a must to visit.
Again for those interested in architecture several of the government buildings are worthy of a visit. The Myanmar International Convention Centre is a grand colonnaded building in front of which is a large, ref lective pool.
Behind the vast marble clad entrance hall is the auditorium which seats some 1,900 people. Very tastefully decorated, comfortable red velvet seats, teak walls, and the stage is equipped with all the latest technology for presentations.
The Centre was a gift from China and was originally planned for Yangon but then with the shift of capital it was built in Nay Pyi Taw. The various smaller meeting rooms and offices are separated from the main spaces by some internal gardens all well-kept.
The Hluttaw (Parliament) complex is made up of 31 buildings, with the Presidential Palace nearby. The significance of 31 is said to refer to the 31 ‘planes of existence’ in Buddhist cosmology. Set in 800 acres of land this highly decorated statement building with traditional Myanmar-style roofs is home to the 664 members of parliament. The Hluttaw is made up of an Upper House (House of Nationalities) and a Lower House (House of Representatives) with all members elected save 25% reserved for the military. Hluttaw is the word which was used for the Council of Ministers under the King of Myanmar.
The City Hall built in the same style, though not so ornate, is nearby. Other buildings of interest are the Railway Station, which has several old engines parked out front plus a charming topiary engine. The entrance to the station is a triple height space with a grand double staircase. But once on the platform the normal humdrum of a station is safely in place—groups of all ages waiting for trains, the bustle, the food hawkers advertising their wares and the noise of the trains. The International Airport is another impressive building; designed by a Singaporean architect it has the capacity to welcome 3.5 million passengers a year. Major buildings still to be finished are the National Library and the National Museum.
For those wanting some night life the Myoma Market is a lively spot—a multitude of stalls including some good food stalls. Here it is possible to sample some delicious Shan dishes, Nangyi Salad or coconut noodles. It is open during the day but comes to life in the early evening.
Around Nay Pyi Taw
Some twenty minutes’ drive from Nay Pyi Taw is the town of Pyinmana, the car leaves the broad highways of the city onto a tree-lined avenue bordered by teak houses interspersed with a few larger ones of brick and mortar. At the centre of this busy town is Lake Mingalar Shan-Kan one side of which stands a handsome statue of Bogyoke Aung San in his army ‘great coat’. The statue was erected in 1948 as, during World War II, the General spent time here. Around the shore of the lake are various fine heritage buildings, some wooden some brick. The Cyber House Internet café sits alongside a lovely old teak house its shutters open, on the benches in the forecourt sit several people reading their newspapers. Delicious Shan mohingha is served in the cafés for breakfast. This town has a feeling of a vibrant community, local music heralds a Hindu ceremony further around the lake, and it is full moon so festivals are never far away.
At one corner of the lake is Pa-Ya-Koe Suu Pagoda, this compound with nine small stupas built in the Shan style, dates from around CE (AD) 1305.
Originally the nine stupas were built by nine devotees from nine surrounding villages. Not far away is another fine pagoda complex Koe Khan Gyi. Up some steps with gardens either side where a mixture of birdsong and chattering babes punctuate the silence of the pagoda. In the centre of the building is a large seated Buddha image made of bronze whilst the perimeter of the complex is decorated with 264 paintings of Buddha’s former life, the Jataka stories. This is a popular place for astrologers (and given the queues at several astrologers some are more popular than others!).
Next door is a marvellous complex of old teak buildings which form the Lawka Yan Hnein monastery, this is home to some 10 monks. The central stupa was built by King Theebaw, whilst the mixture of wooden and brick buildings surrounding the main stupa date from different times. A place with a wonderfully calm feeling, it would be so easy to spend time at this monastery imbibing the atmosphere.
In a nearby village is Aung Kone monastery which is a real treasure. At the end of a village track sits this beautiful teak building on stilts, shaded by fine old Acacia trees. The main building is one big room with a few wooden cubicles where the older monks sleep. The Abbot himself has a bed next to the annexe containing a Buddha image in the Mandalay style. A few punkahs hang from the carved ceiling. Around the old central building are various modern ones where the some 25 monks sleep.
Lewe is another small town next to Nay Pyi Taw—more beautiful trees line the road into town. At the centre stands the heavily restored 1,200 year old Phaung Taw Chat Ma Pagoda, a large golden stupa topped off with a beautiful gem encrusted hti or umbrella. An ancient, but very healthy looking, Banyan fills one corner of the surrounding terrace. Sitting at the base of the tree is a Buddha image surrounded by five disciples.
Lewe like Pyinmana has a mixture of fine old shop-houses displaying their wares; rice in huge black lacquer containers alongside wooden residences with balconies displaying f lower filled pots. A general buzz of life fills the streets, a motorcyclists passes with a laptop bag slung over his shoulder—a mixture of old and new. This is a snapshot of things to do and see in and around the capital of Nay Pyi Taw, but there is plenty more.
Nay Pyi Taw As a Stop-Over
While Nay Pyi Taw is primarily a diplomatic and business destination leisure vistors who may wish to include “NPT” in their itineraries can consider a stop-over travelling to or from Yangon or Mandalay. Luxury buses make for a comfortable journey up from Yangon on the excellent Yangon–Nay Pyi Taw–Mandalay Expressway. “NPT” being located quite close to the halfway point about four and a half hours out of Yangon, with Mandalay around three and half hours further north. A nice and indeed interesting way to break the all-day ride northward or southward.